9/22/2013

Cuenca and their San Mateo Celebrations; Beware of the Bulls Running in Plaza Mayor!

Hello Lovelies!!

I went to Cuenca this weekend on a spiritual journey to do some soul-searching, heart-healing, head-clearing, life-exploring stuffs.

What I found was an entire town in PARTY MODE! Viva la fiesta in Cuenca! People were wearing the wine they were drinking; pants, shirts, shoes were not spared and are quite possibly permanently stained with Sangria, bottled tinto de verano, good ole' Don Simone, and who knows what else. Half of the city smelled like a frat house on Sunday morning after homecoming weekend. Pee and vomit smells included. The only real difference was that the whole town from age 3 months to 93 years old was involved.

Plaza Mayor right before the Bull Run (el toro del fuego)
I wandered through the lower half of the city, the more commercialized 20th century, less-party stricken area on my way to my hostel. Hostal de la Luz, fitting for my spiritual journey, as I'm "looking for the light" in my life. The hostel was a bit further away from the festivities, but not far enough away to lack the horns, trumpets, trombones, cheering, and fireworks. The hostel was cute, and two dogs greeted me with wagging tails - looks like I came to the right place. It was a warm and wonderful welcome to a tattered soul. Dogs are awesome. (Don't worry cat lovers, I still love cats as pets too.)

Just follow the little picture of the London-esk looking man waiting for rain... silly guy, it doesn't rain here!
I had a room to myself and even a private bathroom, which was nice. The real gem was the cute window with a view of one of the most beautiful rivers I've ever seen - el Río de Júcar. It was such a vibrant clear river with so much life, you could see the little ducks webbed feet paddling underneath them. I immediately knew where the name of Cuenca came from - if you say Cuenca just right a few times in a row, it almost sounds like ducks quacking. haha. Broma, broma.

The view of my hostel from the river!
The lovely hostel hostess informed me that I needed to (and I'm paraphrasing in English her Spanish directions) "follow the river, cross the little iron bridge - not the stone one, and climb the giant zigzag path - slowly - to the top" where I was to find Plaza Mayor, where all the festivities would be taking place. Little did I know that these festivities were even happening, much less that a BULL RUN (el toro del fuego) would be passing right through plaza mayor. 

Just follow the signs of anguish up the giant hill... you'll be fine... really!
The barricades were two fences thick with space in between for crazies, I mean runners, to jump to safety if need be. Sounds like fun to me! (Not!) I have told many people that I have no interest in partaking in any such activities, as running from an angry bull just isn't on the top of my list of things I must accomplish before I die. Mainly because it is important for me to survive after I do things off of said list, but I digress. Mostly the spectators sat on these barricades, young, old, crying, scared, screaming, but not me. I stayed back and stood on the stone wall far away from said protective barricades. Had the bull really been running rampant freely, I did NOT want to be near it!

The protective barriers serving as bleachers.
Luckily the bull was not allowed to run through the city freely, that would be utter madness. Instead la Vaca was paraded through the streets held back by two strong men holding onto ropes tied around the bull's horns, and being lead by who I assume was a trained Matador who guided the bull by pulling it's horns in certain directions. The crowd went wild, literally. They were running, screaming, some jumping over the barricades, some chasing the bull trying to smack it's ass as if it were some football champion who just scored an easy goal. Even the band chased the bull around playing playful taunting music to keep the crowd entertained and the energy high. Although the music was joyful and fun to jump up and down to, I can't help but feel as if the bull was merely annoyed and ready to go home for his afternoon siesta. It was actually quite sad. 

Poor bull being showcased around the city!


After the bull came through the plaza and disappeared and circled back, I assumed that the madness had ended. People were still sitting, chanting, waiting, but a few were moseying around, so I thought, "hey, I'll wander around the rest of the city and see what else is happening." I couldn't have been more wrong! I found myself out of the barricades and right in the middle "Bull Lane". When people started running into boarded up restaurants and hiding behind the big bars placed in the restaurants doors, I began to worry. But, idiot-tourist me just scooted to the side. 

"I'll be okay" I thought. "Surely he won't come over here" I thought.

Only then did I see the bull coming right out of the main plaza, hurling faster than I had seen before, strait into our zone. He veered right, and headed RIGHT TOWARD ME! I had nowhere to go, I was done for, I was a goner, I was a stupid tourist in the wrong place, at the wrong time. Luckily the bullfighter pulled his horns, perhaps he sniffed out the little american girl and realized the dangers of her cute but stupid ignorance, and saved me from being rammed into the side of a boarded up restaurant. THANK YOU Matador Man!

(On a side note after I realized I wasn't going to die, I'd wished I had had my camera to catch that beautiful and sad creature's photo right before being pulverized to death).

Who knew my relaxing weekend would consist of accidentally being part of a bull run. And here I've sworn up and down I never wanted anything to do with such nonsensical madness! Jerks confusing me, making me think that the bull run was over! Why would you hang out knowingly in Bull City!?!?!

They were right to stay safe up in their balconies!!
I decided to not only head back behind barricades where I knew it was safe, but also to just vacate plaza mayor altogether. I found a back corridor linked to some restaurants and a lookout point and fell upon a giant party tent. At first I felt out of place, alone, not dressed in San Mateo garb, not drunk, not Spanish, and clearly oblivious to how anything worked around here, but food and alcohol brings people together! I sat for a few minutes and broke my technological hiatus to chat with Katherine and check my whatsapp messages. Then I ate the most delicious chorizo-brats I've ever had, gulping down some summer Shandy (Spanish Beer mixed with Lemonade is a common drink in the summertime and now has a bottled version).


My delicious Chorizo-Brat Sandwhich and Shandy beers!
Needing a Siesta I headed back down the mountain to my hostel, to safety, to peace and quiet with the ducks. An old man asked me if I was from Madrid, I don't know if this was due to a newly acquired Madrilena accent, or if he just "knew" somehow. Let's just say he was crazy and made a good guess.

The cute old buildings in the "ciudad antigua".

The other side of the "mountain".
I sat by the river for a long time, and commenced the spiritual part of my journey. I picked up three leaves to release into the river. Each one representing something that I needed to let go of in order to move forward in my life. Each one a burden I would no longer be carrying with me.

My heart felt lighter. I finally felt whole again, my heart has finally opened up and rejoined me. I took a deep breathe in, filling my lungs with the fresh air of a new beginning.

I even stopped to smell the roses. Oh the smell of hot summer roses!!

The river was beautiful, as well as all the little bridges crossing over it throughout the city.
I took a nap at the hostel before heading out again. This time I went to the lower part of the city, stopping at a park full of old people, also avoiding the young heathens. I read my book, in concurrence with their wise decision. I also really didn't want to walk up the mountain again, or accidentally run into my new four-legged angry and horned best friend.

A weird fountain of a boy riding a spitting swan.... It was cuter when the old man and his grandson were playing in it.
A little gazebo in the middle of the park, serving as a jungle gym for little kids.
Wandering around, following the tracks of two girls with delicious looking ice-cream cones, I found hazelnut gelato, and settled down for a nice dinner of pork chops with eggs sunny side up and french fries (This is actually a quite typical Spanish meal).

A little on the salty side, but delicious anyway!
Since I was alone on this trip, I loaned my empty seats to the most adorable group of grandma's on the terrace. I like to pretend that they were a group of disguised party ninjas, guzzling Sangria in their kitchens while the youngens were up top secretly filling their canteens with wine. Grandma's just can't be seen partaking in such outrageous street drinking, one must do that in their own kitchen. I see you over there, sipping your little beers contently!!!

I misread a flier and thought that there would be some sort of ritual-like bonfire up in plaza mayor, so I followed the other little river and climbed up the other side of the small mountain, only to be disappointed that everyone was doing exactly the same thing, except more drunk and more wine-covered this time. I am still pained by the thought of that poor bull being paraded around so many days in a row, so many times a day for these festivities, but tradition is tradition I guess.

These were all over the city, in case you were a big stupid-face and didn't know it was a festival weekend!
The city of Cuenca itself isn't all that beautiful, it's the beautiful rivers passing through it, the mountains, and the ancient city above that gives it it's charm.

Río de Júcar
Some cliffs leading to the "ciudad antigua"
A beautiful fiver walk, where I spent most of my time in Cuenca.
My last day in Cuenca I avoided the city altogether and followed the bigger river out of the city and into a canyon-like valley. Here there were people running, kids riding bikes, dogs playing and a man-made beach, there was something very western USA about it. On my way back to the city and to the bus station to catch the afternoon Avanza bus to Madrid, I enjoyed Oreo and Rocher gelato, Arroz Caldoso, and some lamb chops for lunch.

Breakfast! Un Bollo and Red Tea!!
Lunch?? Naaaa, just a good excuse for ice-cream!
Arroz Caldoso, when in doubt about what a food is, just order it, and see what happens!! 
And of course, the yummy wine.
Overall, I would say that my little trip to Cuenca was just what I needed, and maybe even a little more exciting than I had anticipated!

Me! I had to throw at least one in there. Just for you Dad!! <3
Until next time my lovelies,
Raelynne

3/03/2013

The Opera: Cosí fan tutte or The Pretty Woman Reenactment



I have always wanted to go to the opera, perhaps something to do with the movie Pretty Woman and my obsession with the actress Julia Roberts when I was younger, or merely it has something to do with my involvement in Theater and wanting to see another type of stage performance. Either way, Guillaume made my dreams come true and bought me tickets for my birthday. What a sweetheart!! 

So, last night we went to the Opera, Cosí fan tutte which was written in 1790 by Wolfgang Amadé Mozart and Lorenzo de Ponte. We had no idea what the opera was going to be about until we got there, and there weren’t any reviews yet, because Guillaume had to buy the tickets before it was even showing, because the opera sells out quick. (Who knew! lol)

This is how I felt all night. Sharp, Classy, Sexy.
But first, I needed a dress. I got off work early, the day before we were going, so I finally had time to stop by a dress shop I’d seen in our neighborhood. The parallels between Pretty Woman and my dress hunt started out very similarly. Apparently my jeans, greasy hair from working all day, and worn down boots made the lady dismiss me as an actual client, but either way she made me feel unwelcome. 

At least Julia Robert's hair was clean...
I had two dresses in my arms, and after the other client left and I was the only one in the shop, I asked her to help me as I was going to an Opera and didn’t know my dress size. She played with the radio for about 4-5 minutes until settling on the least scratchy channel and came over to me. Looked at the dresses I'd selected and asked when the “party” was. 

“It’s tomorrow.”

The look on her face was enough to know that she thought I was impossible. Oh, but I don’t think our seamstress will have time to make the necessary alterations on the dress that quickly, this is impossible. I replied that I hadn’t thought of this, as I’ve never had to have alterations done except for bridesmaid’s dresses for weddings. This is mostly due to my motto while shopping, if they don’t have my size, I’m not meant to have it. I looked at her and asked, well what if the dress fits? She looked flabbergasted, well it’s very difficult to find a perfect dress; there is always a little alteration that needs to be done. 

“I’ll go to some other shop then.”

She was shocked at my response again and as she hung up the dresses in the changing room stated firmly that it wasn’t about it being the shop, but that any shop would say the same thing.

“Am I not allowed to try the dresses on then?”

“Well, yes, but…”

I almost walked out of the store just then, but I have a fighting spirit. I stepped into the dressing room, and picked the first dress, once again almost deciding not to even try it on and just go to another store, but I really liked the dress and just had to see if it fit.

I stepped out. She zipped me up. Perfect fit. 

“Wow, that looks great on you, let me get you a waist sash for the middle.”

The dress is amazing, I love it!!! (in your face shop lady!)
Oh, now you want to be helpful… I decided not to try on the other dress as it was clearly too long for me, and would need alterations. How much is it? She didn’t know, we needed to go next door to the actual boutique (apparently this was not a different dress shop, rather the outlet. Good news, that meant the dress was 50-70% off). We went next door, and the owner, Tony, was on the phone. So I started to look around and found two more dresses I wanted to try on. Luckily the woman had to go back to the store next door to help other customers and I was left with a very helpful man who was all but interested in the new freckly customer. NOW, they take me seriously. Ridiculous. 

I tried on the other dresses and liked another one and it was yet ANOTHER perfect fit. Great, now I have to make a decision on which one I want, and here that lady thought I wouldn’t find any dress that fit! Tony seemed to take a liking to me and told me he’d give me a “precio especial”, which really just meant that he gave me a good deal on the second dress if I bought them both. So, I ended up with a lovely dress for the opera and a dress for one or all of the many future weddings of our friends and families coming up in 2014. 

Me trying on the dress at the store.
The evil woman from next door returned as I was checking out, and said that I was extremely lucky to have found not one but TWO dresses. I just smiled and said, well, if I hadn’t have found one, I would have just worn one I already had. She just kind of smirked, as if she would never have done such a thing. If I like a dress, you better be damn sure that I’m going to wear it again and again and again. I don’t care if there are already pictures on facebook of me in that dress. It looks good, so “Imma wear it!”

I really wanted to do this...
The next day came quickly and I got ready, nails, hair, makeup, the whole 9 yards - which most of you know, is something I only do for very special occasions, or when I just randomly feel like spending 2 hours to look fabulous once or twice a year. Guillaume pulled out his nice suit and ties and was ready in about 20 minutes, shower and all. Boys are so lucky! 

Nice and Sharp before the show
All ready!!
We took a taxi to the Teatro Real de Madrid, which is the great Opera House that was built in 1850 in Madrid and has been putting on Opera’s, Ballets and plays every since. This is also the Theatre that Cari, Vivian and I went to last year for the Cuban Ballet. 

Teatro Real de Madrid: Opera House
A nice man outside took our photo in front of the theater before we headed inside. As we found our seats, I felt even more like Julia Roberts in her bright red gown. Everyone is looking at me, I look ridiculous, they know I’m not supposed to be here, everyone is more casual than me, what if I don’t like it... and more thoughts that Katrina and Karen assured me were ridiculous via text.

Ready for the Opera!!
To add to these emotions and the parallels between the 90s hit, we sat in a “Palco” or a private theater box with four other people on the first floor of the theater. It was fantastic. We could see the main floor where at least a few hundred people were piling in, the director of the full orchestra (with TWO oboes), all but a small corner of the stage hidden by the elegant velvet railing of our private section, and I felt like a princess (except that I wasn’t sitting in the Kings private theater box). 

Theater Box 6. Our "Palco"!!!!
Even the signs are fancy.
Us in our seats!
View of the theater from our seats. So beautiful.
The opera itself was in Italian, and there were a selection of screens that displayed subtitles in Spanish and in English, as well as a screen on the balcony level three or four floors above us that displayed a close up of the actors while they were singing. 

Our tickets to verify we weren't dreaming and we were indeed in this theater box!
I caught a few words in Italian when they were singing songs that reiterated the theme of the previously sung conversation, and followed the plot through subtitles. It was nice, because singing takes longer than reading, so you could quickly read the subtitles, then return to watching the opera and listen to the orchestra play. 

Dorabella and Ferrando, Don Alfonso, Guglielmo and Fiordiligi, and the maid in the back, Despina
The plot itself was very misogynistic presenting two couples and an old jaded man who bet the men that their lovers would betray them, proving that women’s loyalty is like the wind. The men, being extremely arrogant, not necessarily counting on their lover’s pure love, but betting on the fact that they believed themselves to be of the most noble, wealthy and charming men out there, agreed to deceive their lovers to test their loyalty. 

The conniving old man and the arrogant young men
I must admit now, that I was rooting for the women the whole time. Hoping that they would recognize their lovers in disguise and play a mean trick on the deserving idiots, but we have to remember this opera was written in the late 18th century, by a man, and that there would be no strong, intelligent, independent women in this opera. Other than the maid who in my opinion was a terrible skank and I can’t believe she sided with the old man for gold and lead the women astray - THEY TRUSTED HER. Oh, I could write a novel on how much that character irked me at the core.  
The conniving maid who sold her girls out for a gold chain...
In the end, everything went as the maid and old man wanted, and the lovers were increasingly cocky. Although, the hilarious point of the story is that the women chose each other’s lovers in their secret admirers, which really bothered the men, obviously. I rather enjoyed this part of the opera because the men were secretly shocked and outraged, and thought they had been discovered, but actually the women were just “being women” according to the author. (The author even had the audacity to have the women sing “what do you expect, we’re just women” as part of an explanation for their unfaithful actions).

Fiordiligi, one of the main characters, singing about her confused passionate feelings for her lover
In the end, the solution was marriage, and the men were advised by the old man to just marry these two ladies because they still loved them, and to be honest, no other woman would be any different anyway, so there was no point in searching with jaded eyes for new lovers. SAY WHAT!??!

Their practically forced marriage with the "opposite" men, before the real identity was revealed.
I wish I could say that this opera no longer had real meaning in the 21st century, three centuries after being written, but unfortunately it holds a sad truth for many people even in our society today. Although, I think many things have changed, and the ending would be quite different, some still believe this thought process to be true, and for some it is. 

Needless to say, the giant love quadrilateral made everyone unhappy.
We couldn’t help but wonder how the women in the opera feel about playing their parts in this extremely misogynistic opera each day. Do they accept it as an old-fashioned opera and merely jump into character as they sing their lines? Or do they wish to re-write the opera and represent a more modern view of women as I do?  

Dorabella and Fiordiligi
Even though the storyline really bothered me and I was disappointed in all of the character’s actions, the actors did an amazing job and god they could sing. I wonder if I would have enjoyed the opera more had I not read the subtitles, although, it was quite obvious what the opera was about. The orchestra was phenomenal and the music was written very well. 

Orchestra section and curtain call
The only bizarre thing about the entire opera was the choice of costumes for the characters. There were characters in clothing from the time period the opera was written, including the old man and maid and half of the extras, and there were characters dressed in modern-day outfits, including the main couples and the other half of the extras. I wonder if this is to show that the old man’s thoughts are “old fashioned” or that the opera holds a “truth” even in modern-day society? Either way the emotions, acting and music were magnificent. 

I encourage everyone to see a classic opera at least once in their lifetime. It was an experience I really never will forget. 

Merci beaucoup Mon Cheri!!!
Until next time,
Raelynne

2/27/2013

Naw-ing-am: the Proper way to Pronounce Nottingham



I went on a wonderful weekend adventure to a large rainy Island called Great Britain. More specifically I explored the part called England, in the towns of Manchester, Nottingham, and Mansfield. 

As if Madrid wasn’t cold and rainy enough, I thought that it would be best to go to an even earlier sunset, in an even wetter place, to visit my good friend Edouard whom I met in Salamanca a few years back in a Summer Erasmus Intensive Spanish language program (we’ll call it SEIS). Who knew I’d actually spend more time speaking Spanish to two wonderful French-ies known as Margaux and Edouard than actually speaking with Spaniards!!! (It’s actually quite hard in a little college town, but spending time with them linked me to more fun than I could have imagined in that dark summer so long ago). It got to the point that Edouard actually forgot that I spoke English - SUCCESS! haha.

Anyway, back to this story for a rainy day, or in my case a story for a snowy day. I am joining you today because my class was canceled due to SNOW! (For those of you non-Madrid familiars, it hasn’t snowed IN Madrid in four years! ) So we get the pleasure of spending it together, cyber-ly. 

View out of my apartment window in Madrd!!
When I got to Manchester, I didn’t realize that I wouldn’t be able to understand many of the signs, as the English speak English, I assumed that being an English speaker would suffice. This is however incorrect. I stood on the platform assuming that “calling at” meant stopping at, but then I decided I’d better be safe, perhaps “calling at” meant the line finished there and to go to the next stop I’d have to change trains and purchase yet another 7£ ticket. This seemed unproductive, but when you don’t know, you start to worry that you are wrong, and when you are trying to catch a long distance train to your intended destination, assuming does not seem like a good idea. 

So, what is a girl to do? Hop on the train and just hope? Or ask the man standing next to her? (I should note that I hate people knowing I’m a “lost tourist” in a place, I just feel vulnerable, like an ant on a picnic blanket in June). At the very last minute I made the correct decision. 

“Pardon me” the opening phrase seems just as foreign as a wild lemon tree in Alaska “Does this train stop at Oxford Road?” I asked. 

“Insert confused question here?” He clearly did not understand my strange abolishment of the English language.

“Does ‘calling at’ mean that this train stops at Oxford Road?” I rephrased.

“Ah, yes, I believe it does.” The man smiled, which was mostly the only thing I understood. There are many letters missing and vowels merged when one speaks English up here.

He believes so. Not reassuring, but good enough for me. Luckily the train was the correct one, and to my good fortune, they announced each stop before arriving at each platform, which was good, because other than that there were no signs to indicate where I was, only where I was going. I thought to myself that this was a perfect representation of how we live life, always knowing where we are going or want to go, but never quite knowing where we are exactly. If you want proof of this, just ask any Spaniard at any bus stop in Madrid - at anytime.

Not a single one of these people know what the name of this bus stop is! Guaranteed.
I made my way to the station that takes me deeper into the middle of nowhere northern England and as the previous train was 20 minutes late I was allowed to take that one and I actually arrived 30 minutes early to my destination. Where, realizing I hadn’t seen Edouard in a year and knowing that he doesn’t update his facebook photos, I wondered if I’d recognize my friend. He couldn’t Not recognize me, I think I’ve looked the same since I was six, because the secretary at my elementary school knew who I was after not having seen me for over 10 years. I don’t know if this makes me look young or childish, but according to Luisito (who you’ll meet in the next blog) I have a “cara de piya” or a baby face. I’m still not so sure that’s a compliment and secretly hoping I misunderstood the expression. 

This is now the image I hold of Nottingham. So Cute!
We found each other and slowly made our way back to his apartment using each bar as a pit stop for refueling the mind with stories of the past and catching up with what’s going on in our lives currently. Discovering that we’re still the same people, we decided that this would be a nice relaxing weekend.

The following day, to my ignorant American surprise, I discovered that Nottingham is the town where Robin Hood had once lived, and still lives on in legends, signs, statues, and stone tiles all over the city. One statue’s arrow had even been “knit graffiti-ed”, which was only significant because I’d just learned about “knit graffiti” a few weeks earlier, and now seem to see it everywhere I go. It makes me want to start “crochet graffiti” as I don’t know how to knit, but it sounds so “hipster scandalous” that I just want to be a part of it!

Seriously, if I would have just typed Nottingham into Google, it says that Nottingham is Robin Hood's hood!

Knit Graffiti - all the cool but "not cool" kids are doing it!
After this I learned more about the history of England, the infamous year of 1066 when William the Conqueror invaded the island -for the last time- and French was used as the language of the elites. Now knowing why the English language is littered with French idioms and legal terms, I felt as if my trip to England was yet another research project on my linguistic quest to connect all languages and thus humanity into a whole. 

The Castle Entrance
The Castle of William the Conqueror (Guillaume le Conquérant) is in Nottingham, and being a language teacher and Edouard a history buff, we decided that wandering around the Castle and seeing the exhibits was well worth our “quid”. We also had time to kill and it is one of the only “key sites” to see in Nottingham, the others being three museums, a grand theater, a windmill and a banquet hall. 

One of the Castle's Courtyards
The Guardian Lion!

The main building. You can see all of Nottingham from up there!
After the pleasant, but short adventure through the old castle, a lace exhibit and a child’s playroom that we mistook for an exhibit, we met up with Florian for Dunch (dinner-lunch). I could have had the typical fish-n-chips or actually gotten a decent burger, but I had a fantastic risotto instead. It isn’t that I don’t like English food, whoever says English food isn’t good, clearly has not had mincemeat, pies, or a well prepared fish-n-chips, it’s just that the risotto looked and smelled so delicious I couldn’t pass it up.

Edouard's Roommate and Friend, Florian
After our meal in the noisy but joyous pub, we took a 40 minute bus to yet even deeper nowhere northern England to a town called Mansfield. Where we enjoyed an all day concert of heavy metal music, pool, great Cider, and I met wonderful Mansfield and Nottingham folk of my own age, all shocked by my American presence in the middle of nowhere England. They were fascinated by the fact that a little freckly American girl had made her way to their small town and even more so that said freckle-face currently lived in Madrid. Upon which another English man and I had a brief conversation in Spanish- I’m still not sure if this occurred because they were testing me, or because they didn’t actually believed their friend spoke real Spanish (even though his mom is Mexican). 

Me and Edouard!!
Unfortunately our night came to a quick end and we had to catch the last bus back to Nottingham, which we had to pay for again because our ticket wasn’t valid after midnight and it was a “new day.” He found my joke about it still being the same day in the US just as amusing as the not-amused-what-so-ever English boy at the bar found my joke about being the Queen of England in disguise. Although Edouard and I thoroughly enjoyed our “soy la reina de Inglaterra” song accompanied with clapping and drunken pretend Flamenco street dancing, you clearly cannot, and I repeat, cannot joke about being the Queen of England - while in England in the presence of the English. They love that little old lady! 

I mean look at that adorable face, who couldn't love a cute little old lady like that!
Sadly and quickly again, the weekend came to an end. I returned to Madrid full of knew knowledge and appreciation for that Great little Island, and knowing how to “properly” pronounce Naw-ing-am.

Until next time lovelies,
Raelynne